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Berthing under engine
Almost every harbour bump happens in the last twenty metres. And almost always because the manoeuvre began before it was clear what wind and stream intended to do with the boat.
Look first, then go
A lap around the basin costs two minutes. Where is the wind from, how does the stream set, how do the neighbours lie, where are the lines and lazy lines. Knowing that beforehand means less throttle afterwards.
Prop walk
Going astern, the stern of most boats pulls to one side, to port with a right handed propeller. That is not a nuisance but a tool: berth so that prop walk pulls the stern towards the pontoon, not away from it.
Springing on
With the wind off the pontoon an aft spring helps: ashore first, then a touch of ahead against the line. The boat swings itself alongside and stays there without anyone having to pull.
The abort
Decide beforehand what tells you it is not working and where you go instead. An aborted manoeuvre costs nothing. One pushed through that goes wrong costs gelcoat, guardrail or the neighbour.
Planning a harbour manoeuvre before the first line goes ashore
Good berthing starts outside the harbour entrance, not at the pontoon. Out there you still have room to hang fenders, flake out lines and tell the crew calmly who does what. Hunting for fenders inside the basin ties up hands at exactly the moment the boat needs them.
Settle three questions before you come in: which side goes alongside, which line goes ashore first and who hands it over. Fenders belong on the side facing the pontoon, at the height of the edge the hull will rub against. A spare fender held by one of the crew covers the spot where you misjudged things after all.
Planning also means the route along the fairway between the berths. Note where there is room to turn and where there is not. With the wind blowing across the fairway, turning at the far end is often the hardest part of the whole manoeuvre.
- Hang fenders at the height of the pontoon edge or the neighbour's topsides
- Prepare bow line, stern line and spring, led outside everything so they run clear
- Give everyone a job: helm, line handler, roving fender
- Check wind and stream inside the basin
- Agree the abort point and a fallback berth
Berthing in a crosswind
A crosswind is why a manoeuvre that was easy yesterday goes wrong today. At low speed the rudder has little bite and the wind pushes the boat sideways. On most boats the bow blows off faster than the stern, because there is little hull in the water forward and a lot of windage above it. Treat that as a rule of thumb, since every boat has its own habits.
So in a crosswind carry a little more way than in a calm, but never more than you can stop, and keep the bow aimed to windward of the berth. Aim straight at the gap and you will arrive some way downwind of it. Allow for leeway the way you would when crossing a river.
With the wind blowing onto the pontoon, coming alongside is easy and leaving is hard. Stop parallel about a boat's width off and let the wind carry you in, well fendered. With the wind blowing off, the first line has to be secure quickly, usually from the midships cleat, so the boat cannot drift away while the rest are made fast.
Reversing into a berth
Going stern first into a gap is the manoeuvre many skippers dread most. Yet the boat behaves predictably once you know its quirks. Try it in open water first: see which way the stern kicks when you engage astern and how much speed it takes before the rudder starts to work. Five minutes of practice outside saves several attempts inside.
Astern, the rudder needs water flowing past it before it does anything. Short, decisive bursts of throttle with neutral in between usually work better than a steady speed. Keep a firm grip on the wheel, because going astern the rudder blade can slam hard over. With a tiller this matters even more.
Use prop walk deliberately: if your stern kicks to port, set up the approach so that the kick carries you into the gap rather than onto the neighbour. As a rule of thumb, the stern seeks the wind when going astern, because the bow falls away. Reversing in with the stern to windward is therefore often easier than with the wind behind you.
Box berths between piles
In many North Sea and Baltic harbours boats lie in box berths: a pontoon or jetty at one end, two wooden piles at the other. The usual way in is bow first. The stern lines have to be dropped over the piles while the boat is still moving, which only works if they are prepared with a large loop and someone is ready on each side.
In a crosswind the line over the windward pile goes on first. It holds the stern while the boat glides on. Do not snub it; let it run out and only take it in just short of the jetty, so it stops the boat before the bow touches. Then the bow lines go ashore.
Check the width of the box before committing. If it looks tight, pick another rather than wedging yourself between the piles. And before anyone steps from the bow onto the jetty, the boat must be stopped. A step off a moving boat easily ends in the gap between hull and jetty.
Short-handed berthing and the second attempt
Help from the pontoon is welcome, but only when it is clear what you want. Tell the helper plainly where to put the line and pass it so the tail stays on board. That way you control the tension from the boat rather than leaving it to someone ashore.
Hands and feet are no substitute for distance. Nobody should try to fend a boat off a pontoon or a neighbour with a leg or an arm; no body stands up to several tonnes on the move. A roving fender held at the point of contact does the job far better.
If the approach is not working, go to neutral, head back into open water and set up again. Hardly anyone on the pontoon notices a second attempt, but everyone hears a bang on the boat next door.
Frequently asked questions
How fast should I approach the berth?
As slowly as possible and as fast as necessary. In a calm, walking pace is often enough. In a breeze you need a little more way for the rudder to bite. What matters is that you can stop at any moment.
Which line should go ashore first when berthing?
It depends on the wind. Alongside it is often a midships line or an aft spring, because that holds the boat in position. In a box berth it is the stern line on the windward side. Decide beforehand and tell the crew.
Is it better to go into a box berth bow first or stern first?
Bow first is usually easier, because you can see more and the boat steers better. Stern first makes getting off over the transom easier but demands a good feel for prop walk. Practise it in light winds first.
Does a bow thruster help when berthing in a crosswind?
It holds the bow as long as the wind is moderate. In a strong breeze it often lacks the power, and many units may only run for short periods. Plan the manoeuvre so that it also works without the thruster.
Can I berth single-handed?
Yes, with preparation. A line from the midships cleat, passed round a cleat or ring on the pontoon and back on board, holds the boat while you put out the other lines. Practise it in quiet conditions.
What should I do after touching another boat while berthing?
Secure your own boat first, then look. Photograph both boats, note the name, berth and any witnesses, and speak to the other owner or the harbour master. Report the incident to your insurer promptly.
What this has to do with insurance
Berthing brings two claims together: the one on your own boat, carried by hull cover, and the one on somebody else's, carried by liability. So after a contact it is worth looking beyond your own boat and recording the matter straight away: photographs, witnesses, the name and berth of the other boat.
