Chartering in the Cyclades in high summer: what the meltemi means for route and harbours

Chartering in the Cyclades in high summer almost always means sailing in the meltemi. It is a dry northerly wind over the Aegean that blows mainly in July and August, often for several days at a time and frequently at force 6 or 7, with stronger gusts. It funnels and accelerates between the islands, and the sea it builds is short and steep. If you are used to the Solent or the Dutch coast, it is the steepness of the sea that surprises you. What the meltemi means for your route and harbours decides the whole fortnight.

Direction is what matters. Most bases are on the northern or western side of the group, and the wind comes from the north. The usual advice is to make your northward legs on quieter days and early in the morning, and to come back with the wind. Many harbours and anchorages are open to the north and become uncomfortable in a meltemi, and the quays fill up with boats moored stern-to on their own anchors. Plan short legs, a spare day in hand and a bolt hole in the lee of an island for every passage.

Before you book, ask the base which route it recommends in high summer and whether the charter agreement lets it stop you sailing or restrict the cruising area in strong winds; in a gale warning the Greek port authorities can also restrict departures. Ask for a reefing briefing at handover and reef early. Spend the last night close to the base, because the final leg back can be hard on the wind. You are personally liable for damage you do to other yachts when berthing in a crosswind, so make sure your own skipper liability insurance applies in Greece.

Worth remembering

In the Cyclades in high summer the north wind plans the route; crews who accept that have the better holiday.