Chartering round the Peloponnese from Kalamata: the Mani and Monemvasia

A charter from Kalamata begins in the Messinian Gulf on the south coast of the Peloponnese. From there the route runs along the Mani, the bare middle peninsula with its stone tower houses, round Cape Tainaron at the southern tip of mainland Greece into the Laconian Gulf, and on round Cape Maleas towards Monemvasia. It sees far fewer yachts than the Ionian or the Cyclades, which is much of its appeal. But it asks more of a crew than an island area: passages between harbours are often long, and on the west side of the Mani there are only a few small harbours and coves, with no shelter in an onshore wind.

The capes are what matter. Off Cape Tainaron and above all Cape Maleas, the wind can be much stronger than a few miles away and the sea short and steep. In certain conditions strong gusts drop off the Taygetos mountains onto the water. Get into trouble at a cape and there is often no harbour close by. Supplies need planning too: not every small harbour has diesel, water or space on the quay, and as everywhere in Greece you usually moor stern-to with the bow anchor down, which is good practice for anyone used to marina pontoons at home.

Before booking, ask the base what experience it wants for a round of the Peloponnese and whether it allows one-way trips or passages round Cape Maleas. Plan the capes for settled weather and early in the day, with a bolt hole before and after each one, and top up with fuel wherever you can. Keep your certificate of competence and the crew list to hand, because the port police do check. As skipper you are liable for damage you cause to other yachts while berthing, so check that your skipper liability insurance applies in Greece.

Worth remembering

Round the Peloponnese you plan by the capes, not by the harbours.