Chartering in Tonga or Fiji: what experience do South Pacific bases want?

Chartering in Tonga almost always means the Vava'u group in the north, a cruising ground of many islands and sheltered anchorages. Fiji has fewer bases, and many charters there come with a skipper. In both countries the bases want experience as skipper in charge, a certificate of competence such as the ICC or an RYA Yachtmaster, and usually a sailing CV; some put a guide on board for the first day. The reason lies under water: coral heads between the islands, and charts that are not accurate everywhere.

The season is the southern winter, roughly May to October, when the south east trade wind is steady. November to April is cyclone season and many bases hardly charter at all. Through the reefs you navigate by eye, with the sun high and behind you and a lookout on the bow. In Tonga, Sunday is a strict day of rest. In Fiji, before anchoring off a village, you take a gift of kava to the chief and ask permission, a ceremony called sevusevu. Fiji also requires a cruising permit for yachts, which the base usually arranges.

Get the base to confirm in writing what experience and certificate it needs, and send an honest sailing CV. Book in the dry season and ask what the charter contract says about a cyclone warning. Run reef passes only in good light, never into a low sun and never at dusk, and respect village customs in Fiji. You are personally liable as skipper for damage to reefs, moorings and other boats, so check that your own skipper liability insurance reaches as far as the South Pacific.

Worth remembering

Among South Pacific reefs good light matters more than any chart.