Chartering in Crete: the south coast, few harbours, downdraughts and long passages

Most charter bases in Crete are on the north coast, around Chania, Heraklion or Agios Nikolaos. Getting to the south coast means rounding the western or the eastern end of the island first, and both are long passages with few places to stop. Once there, the harbours are few: small ports such as Agia Galini, Chora Sfakion or Ierapetra lie a long way apart, with mountains falling sheer into the sea in between. Chartering in Crete with the south coast in mind means planning each day with a fixed destination, a fallback and enough margin for the return.

In summer the meltemi often blows from the north across the Aegean. On the south coast it arrives over the land, so the water close inshore can look flat while downdraughts pour off the mountains and through the gorges, hitting far harder than the wind a moment earlier. A yacht under full sail can be knocked flat in a single gust. South of the island the sea is open all the way to Africa, and shelter is limited to the few harbours and bays. Fuel, water and provisions are not available everywhere, so fill up whenever you can.

Ask the base whether the charter agreement allows the south coast at all and which harbours it recommends there. Reef early when the meltemi is forecast, anchor with plenty of chain and room to swing away from the shore, and sail the long legs in daylight. The certificate Greece asks of a bareboat skipper applies in Crete as anywhere else in the country. You are personally liable for damage you cause to others with a charter yacht, so look at skipper liability cover before you go.

Worth remembering

On Crete's south coast every passage needs a fallback harbour and an early reef.